Cebu, Philippines · A personal journal
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Two hours from Cebu by OceanJet to Panglao Island, Bohol. An Alona Beach I barely recognized after three years, snorkeling among schools of fish at Napaling, the quiet freedom of Momo Beach — and a cup of sikwate on the way home.
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People queue for lechon (whole roast pig) from early morning, pineapple vendors appear on the roadside and vanish within days, and by evening the smell of charcoal grilling drifts from every corner. A stroll through the everyday Cebu that tourists rarely see.
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From the beautiful beaches of Anda, just under an hour by motorbike — and suddenly you're surrounded by green mountains at Alicia Panoramic Park. Hidden rice terraces, a Spartan hike with a guide, and from the summit, sweeping ridgelines and the blue sea beyond.
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A four-hour ride along the coast to Anda, the farthest corner of Bohol from Cebu. A historic church, a private beach right outside the room, and the Southern Cross glittering in the night sky — a quiet travel diary of Bohol's deeper charms.
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The fried and skewered series: banana-fritter-style kamote-que, banana turon and pinaipai. All around 25 pesos and easy to find once you know what to look for.
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About two hours by boat from Cebu lies Bohol — home to the whimsical cone-shaped Chocolate Hills and the tarsier, one of the most delicate creatures on earth. A travel diary of breathtaking views and tiny wonders.
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Every Saturday from 7am, Marco Polo Plaza Hotel in Lahug, Cebu City hosts a farmers market. What's on sale, what vegetables cost, and the 30-minute walk up the hill.
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Karenderias are Cebu's version of a neighborhood diner — rows of big pots, you lift the lids to see what looks good, and order by the plateful. Cheap, delicious, and completely local.
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Day 2 in Moalboal: snorkeling with a massive school of sardines, getting swept out to sea, and an unexpected up-close encounter with not one but two sea turtles.
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Moalboal is one of Cebu's most famous destinations — known for its massive sardine tornado and sea turtles. A 2-night trip to see what the fuss is about, starting with the iconic Kawasan Falls.
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The last morning on Camiguin: a stop at the market for fresh tuna, a flight home, and some thoughts on what makes small island life feel different from the rest.
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My weekends always start with a morning walk. I wake up around 4am, brew a coffee, and sit on the balcony watching the last stars fade before dawn.
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Three more personal favorites: sapin-sapin (layered coconut rice cake), linugaw (mashed saba banana), and the hard-to-find empanada — the one I buy immediately whenever I spot it.
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Day 3 in Camiguin: a boat to the tiny Mantigue Island for a private beach, sea urchins, and the turtles that didn't show up — then a 'hot spring' that turns out to be a cold river.
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Cebu has massive malls — SM, Ayala, Robinsons — bigger than anything in Japan. One day, glancing up through the atrium of J Mall, I spotted the unmistakable logo: Beard Papa. What followed was four months of patient waiting.
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A coconut falls from the sky. A 70-meter waterfall. A lanzones fruit farm with a café. A stormy sea cancels the sandbar trip but delivers something better: a 400-year-old tree in a ruined church.
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Cebu's local language isn't Tagalog — it's Bisaya (Cebuano). A few words go a long way. Here are the basic greetings that will make locals genuinely happy to see you.
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Camiguin is a tiny island between Bohol and Mindanao — seven volcanoes, a sunken cemetery, the freshest tuna, and sunsets so good you'll want to come back the next day.
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Three more Cebu street snacks, all made from glutinous rice: puto maya, bud-bud, and biko. Buy them at dawn, eat them wrapped in banana leaf.
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In Cebu, street food vendors appear at dawn selling traditional sweets made from glutinous rice, coconut, cassava, and banana leaves. Here are my personal favorites — Part 1.
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The 7D dried mango factory outlet near J-Mall in Cebu: how to find it, opening hours, what's cheaper than the supermarket, and products you can only buy here.
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Torta from Argao is arguably the best baked good in Cebu — made the old-fashioned way, fired in a coconut-shell kiln. A pilgrimage worth making.
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After hiking Osmeña Peak and Cassino Peak, I checked into a glamping tent at Campgrounds at Mantalongon — just 15 minutes away. Private bathroom, campfire, stargazing, and a breakfast served restaurant-style in the open air.
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After descending Osmeña Peak, a 15-minute motorbike ride brings you to Cassino Peak — a sharp rocky summit with jaw-dropping 360-degree panoramic views.
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Osmeña Peak is the highest point on Cebu Island. Rather than a mountain, it's more like the tallest hill in a highland area dotted with jagged peaks — often called 'Cebu's Chocolate Hills.'
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