Day 1 — Checking In

After saying goodbye to Cassino Peak, I headed to tonight’s base: Campgrounds at Mantalongon, about 15 minutes by motorbike from both Cassino and Osmeña peaks.

When I first planned the Osmeña Peak trip, I assumed the only option was to stay at one of the hotels along the coast. But Google Maps revealed this campsite sitting right up in the mountains, surprisingly close to the peaks.

This place is on the higher end of the camping spectrum. Options include tent plots for your own gear, stylish lodge rooms, a campervan, and — my choice — a glamping tent. There’s a restaurant, a pool (not unusual for Cebu campsites), and the thing that genuinely surprised me: a private bathroom and shower exclusively for glamping tent guests. With an auto-lock door. That small building to the right in the photo? My personal bathroom.

Check-in started at 3pm. The glamping tent runs 4,000 pesos per night, which includes water and breakfast. And the tent comes with air conditioning. I don’t usually splurge on glamping, but after hiking two peaks in one day, I had earned this.

Inside: a bedroom, a sitting area, a table, lanterns — everything you need, and nothing you don’t. Perfect for a motorbike camper.

The mountains of Cebu get surprisingly cold at night, so I showered early and started preparing dinner. But first, the main event: the campfire. The site has fire pits set up, and I’d arranged for firewood at check-in. (250 pesos for the wood here — compared to 50 pesos at my usual campsite near Cebu City. Premium location, premium firewood.) Just like my other campsite experiences in Cebu, staff came at the arranged time to stack and light the fire.

Whiskey beside a campfire, stars appearing through gaps in the clouds — I spotted the Big Dipper clearly in the north. Even fireflies showed up, blinking softly in the trees. I can’t think of a better way to end a day. Tired from the climbs, I dozed off watching the flames and called it an early night.

Day 2 — Morning Walk & Breakfast

I woke before dawn and went for a walk. The deep blue sky gradually shifted through lavender and pink as the sun came up. The mountains in the distance were draped in thin cloud. Beautiful.

I ventured outside the campsite boundary and walked down the road. Filipinos are early risers — by 6am, workers were already arriving at what looked like a mining or quarrying site nearby. I kept walking, drawn toward the mountains ahead, and then—

A horse. Right there, standing against the mountain backdrop, doing nothing in particular, looking magnificent.

I’d seen cattle and goats up in the mountains of Cebu, but never a horse. It felt out of place in the best possible way — not like the Philippines at all, but exactly like Cebu showing you something unexpected.

Back to camp for breakfast. I’d pre-ordered sisig — a beloved Filipino dish — delivered at 7am. A waiter arrived carrying a tray with water and napkins, laid out a proper place setting on my tent’s outdoor table, and served me sisig topped with a fried egg, alongside coffee. Formal restaurant service, in a tent, in the mountains.

The sisig was excellent. The rice had garlic worked through it. The coffee — not just bitter, but slightly bright and acidic, exactly how I like it. Ate slowly. Thought about nothing in particular.

I stayed until checkout at noon — a swim in the pool, more coffee, some quiet time — then headed back down to Cebu City.

Next stop on the route: Argao Torta — Cebu’s Famous Pastry…