To Mantigue Island

Day 3 of 4 in Camiguin. Today’s plan: Mantigue Island, a small island just off Camiguin’s coast, reportedly home to sea turtles. After missing the turtles in my last island trip, I had high hopes.

The departure port is San Roque — about 30 minutes by motorbike from the hotel, down an easy-to-miss side road. Tickets at the booth: 750 pesos per boat (up to 6 people), plus 75 pesos per person island entry fee. I waited in the shade with other visitors until my name was called, then boarded.

Landing on Mantigue

Looking back from the boat, Camiguin’s volcanic peaks rose dramatically from the sea — seven volcanoes forming a long ridge, impressive from a distance.

Twenty minutes later, the water around us turned emerald green and the island’s beach came into view. I’m prone to seasickness, so short crossings are always welcome. Anticipation building.

At the landing beach, visitors were already deep into photo sessions — Filipinos have an enthusiastic relationship with self-documentation. Elaborate poses, careful angles, total commitment. No judgment; they’re genuinely having fun. But I didn’t want to walk through anyone’s shot, so I headed around the island looking for quieter spots.

The island is ringed with white sand and mangrove forest, with narrow paths worn through the trees. I followed these paths and within minutes the crowds disappeared.

The only people I encountered: local fishermen, a few construction workers, and children jumping off rocks into the sea. Lucky kids, growing up with this as their normal.

After scouting several spots, I found my beach. Private. Perfect. Shallow water stretching far out, white sand, mangroves casting shade, Camiguin’s volcanic silhouette visible on the horizon. This is it.

Sea Urchins (Turtles: MIA)

The water was so shallow that even 50 meters out I could stand. Beautiful, but probably too shallow for turtles. Instead: sea urchins, lots of them, their spines sharp enough to need careful footing.

Filipinos eat sea urchins dipped in spiced vinegar with chili. I tried it once. As a Japanese person who grew up eating uni (sea urchin) plain or with soy sauce, the vinegar-chili combination did not speak to me. No offense intended. I watched a few urchins navigate the waves instead, released them, and ate my snacks in the mangrove shade.

No turtles today. But half a day of having this place mostly to myself felt like more than enough.

The Hot Springs (Which Were Not Hot)

On the way back, I stopped at Ardent Hot Springs — a natural hot spring fed by one of Camiguin’s seven volcanoes. I was imagining a sulfurous, steaming mountain bath.

The road up to the springs climbs toward the Hibok-Hibok volcano. Past the entrance (20 pesos), the grounds looked more like a public park: barbecue pits, benches, groups of Filipinos eating and drinking and having a great time.

Further in, I found people soaking in what looked like a river. This must be it. I waded in.

The water was not hot. It was not warm. It was cold. River temperature. Not a hint of geothermal anything.

My sulfurous mountain bath dream dissolved.

That said — cool water after a day in salt water and tropical sun actually felt good. The water was clean, the trees overhead were green, and the whole setting was pleasant. I stayed about 30 minutes until I was actually cold, then headed back to the hotel.

The day’s ending: the hotel terrace, a cold beer, and a sunset that more than made up for the lukewarm “hot spring.”

Continued in Camiguin — Final Day…