Getting to Camiguin from Cebu

Camiguin was an island I’d wanted to visit for a long time. It’s tiny, sitting between Bohol and Mindanao, and most people have never heard of it.

I flew Cebu Pacific from Cebu — about 5,200 pesos round trip. From Cebu City, the Mybus from the North Bus Terminal goes directly to Mactan Airport for just 50 pesos, running from 6am. The flight itself is on a small propeller plane, which is somehow thrilling. Total flight time: 55 minutes. Barely enough time to doze off.

Renting a Motorbike (Very Easy in Camiguin)

At the airport, I called the rental shop I’d booked in advance. 300 pesos per day — a good deal compared to 1,000 pesos for 3 days in Bohol. Camiguin is relaxed about formalities: no license check, no deposit, no address required. 😄 Motorbikes here start with nearly empty tanks, so the first stop was a gas station — about 200 pesos to fill up.

Before starting the island loop, food first. It was an early flight and I hadn’t eaten anything. A local karenderia (home-style diner) near the airport sorted that out.

The karenderia was called “3 Machos” — the owner explained that she has three muscular sons, hence the name. I ordered squid braised in sauce, chicken with jackfruit seeds in coconut milk, braised chicken liver, and fish simmered in coconut. Plus two bowls of rice. Total: about 200 pesos. Everything was good, but the chicken and jackfruit seeds in coconut milk was exceptional — fragrant with lemongrass and ginger, lightly sweet and savory, exactly the kind of thing you don’t find anywhere else.

A Lap Around the Island

With a full stomach, I set off with no particular plan — just clockwise around the island.

The weather was perfect. Sea on one side, volcanic mountains on the other, the eye constantly pulled back and forth. Camiguin has seven volcanoes, and here and there thin wisps of smoke curl up from the hills. Rice paddies framed by mountain silhouettes made for beautiful scenery. The coconut trees here grow noticeably taller than the ones in Cebu.

Mid-ride, I encountered a roadblock made of coconut branches laid across the road, with a boy standing watch. I looked up — elementary school-age kids were shinnying up coconut trees and dropping the nuts one by one onto the road below, with a makeshift cone arrangement underneath for safety. Resourceful and impressive.

The Sunken Cemetery

A cross standing in the sea appeared ahead — the Sunken Cemetery (San Quintin Cemetery), one of Camiguin’s iconic sites. As I understand it, a volcanic eruption once submerged the original cemetery, and this cross marks where it lies. You can reach it by boat, or go snorkeling with a guide to explore the underwater gravestones. I didn’t have time today, but it’s on my list for next time.

Riding south, the coastline of Mindanao appeared on the horizon — much closer than I’d imagined. Mindanao is famous for coffee and cacao, and as a coffee lover, I’ve long wanted to visit a farm there. It’s also famous for durian (banned from airplanes for obvious reasons). I’m one of the rare people who actually likes durian. A Mindanao-born colleague once brought fresh durian to the office — the fresh version smells rich and sweet, not offensive at all. The reputation is undeserved, at least for the fresh fruit.

Tuna in Camiguin

Researching Camiguin beforehand, I kept seeing one word: tuna. Camiguin is known for tuna. I found a restaurant that served tuna BBQ and ordered one kilo (the minimum), plus tuna sisig — the Filipino iron plate dish, here made with tuna instead of the usual pork.

Philippine restaurants require patience. I used the wait to plan the next day, and eventually the tuna arrived.

Honest verdict: one kilo looks smaller than expected. But the fish itself was remarkable — juicy, firm, with a slight char on the outside. Not dry at all, more like meat than fish. The tuna sisig was lighter than the pork version, cleaner in flavor. I ordered extra rice and finished everything.

Stocking Up for Dinner

I don’t like rushing through trips, ticking off sights. My ideal travel day ends with settling into a good room, cold beer in hand, watching the colors change over the sea. Tonight’s hotel was on a cliff with the best ocean view I could find — I’d planned to eat dinner on the balcony.

Racing against the check-in deadline, I swung through the island’s one mall, Gaisano, for San Miguel beer (regular and dark). Then to a restaurant recommended for its tuna tataki — literally called “Tuna Tataki” on the menu. Finally, back to the morning karenderia for eggplant omelette and eggplant salad. While I was there, the owner’s sister was grilling a whole tuna on the roadside, five meters away. I hadn’t even asked — she just was. Of course I bought one.

Dinner With a View

Checked in, showered, set up the balcony dinner.

The tuna tataki had a sesame oil fragrance — more like a carpaccio than Japanese-style tataki. Fresh raw fish is rare in Cebu, so this felt special (though I quietly wished for soy sauce). The whole grilled tuna was a revelation — plump and moist, beautifully fragrant from the charcoal. The karenderia dishes paired perfectly with ice-cold San Miguel.

Eating slowly, savoring each thing, with the sea in front of me and the sky turning orange and pink as the sun dropped — I had the thought, on only the first day, that I would definitely be coming back to Camiguin.

Continued in Camiguin Day 2…